Dog Training - The 4 Quadrants of Operant Conditioning - What They Are and How They Are Used

Like people, dogs are motivated by gain and to avoid pain. Hence, to train a dog, reinforcements or punishments can be used.

So What Are Reinforcements and Punishments?
Reinforcements are anything that increases the probability of a dog repeating a particular behaviour. Similarly, punishments are anything that decreases the probability of a behaviour being repeated.
What may not be too clear though is that there are 2 kinds of reinforcements and likewise, 2 kinds of punishments. Here's why...

The 4 Quadrants of Operant Conditioning
To reinforce a dog for a particular behavior, you can give it something it likes (e.g. a treat) or takeaway something it does not like (e.g. an aversive). Both ways, the dog is rewarded to repeat the behavior. The former is called positive reinforcement (R+) and the latter negative reinforcement (R-).

And to punish a dog for bad behaviour so as to decrease the probability of the dog repeating that behaviour, you can administer something the dog does not like (e.g. physical punishment) or simply take away something it likes (e.g. a withdrawal of privilege say in the form of a time out). The former in this case is called positive punishment (P+) and the latter negative punishment (P-).

As can be seen from the above examples, the word positive and negative is simply used to indicate if something is being administered or taken away. And because you can reinforce or punish a dog by adding or taking away things, we end up with 2 distinct types of reinforcements and punishments each or in short, the 4 Quadrants of Operant Conditioning.

Examples of the 4 Quadrants Being Used in Dog Training
Here are common examples of the four quadrants in action during dog training:
Positive Reinforcement (R+): Asking a dog to sit and giving it a treat when it sits
Negative Reinforcement (R-): When teaching a dog to retrieve, to pinch the dog's ear (aversive) and releasing it (taking away aversive) only when the dog retrieves the object.

Positive Punishment (P+): Using a leash pop to correct a dog for an undesirable behaviour.
Negative Punishment (P-): When a dog is happily playing with another dog, to Instituting a time out by taking a dog to a boring corner (taking away play time) the moment it becomes too rough or aggressive (undesirable behaviour)

Clicker Vs Compulsion Dog Trainers and how they use the 4 Quadrants
Clicker and another positive rewards based trainers generally apply lots of R+ in their training. On rare occasions where punishment is required, they typically administer P-. In clicker training, dogs are frequently set up to succeed, giving trainers the opportunity to mark, reward and reinforce desired behaviours. Such training is therefore generally termed as more humane and dog friendly.

Conversely compulsion trainers focus a lot on using P+ and R- to get the job done. Dogs are at times deliberately set up to make mistakes, giving the trainer the opportunity to correct the dog. Hence the term correction and compulsion are commonly associated with such form of dog training.

The author of this is article, Andrew Koh, is one of the top obedience competitors in Singapore. He believes in the clicker method of dog training and his dog, Rufus CDX, is the 2009 Singapore Kennel Club Reserve Obedience Dog of the Year. If you enjoyed this article, why not visit our Singapore Dog Training website.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andrew_Jit_Kwang_Koh

Potty Training An Older Dog - 7 Practical Tips

While some people prefer getting cute, huggable, and adorable puppies, other people like getting a full grown dog instead. Older dogs tend to be more mature and perhaps better companions, the best friend that a human would need.

However, some people have qualms about getting an older dog because of the common notion that people cannot teach old dogs new tricks, especially potty training. But this is not actually the case, older dogs can still be potty trained with some important things in mind.

Here are some tips for potty training an older dog:
1. When potty training an older dog, your focus should be teaching the dog to eliminate outside, instead of teaching it not to eliminate inside. It is easier to teach an older dog to DO something instead of NOT DOING something.

If the dog already has an old habit of doing it inside, it would be hard to focus too much on eliminating that habit. It is rather easier to help it learn a better alternative to an old bad behavior.

2. Select a spot where you want the dog to do its business, such as a small corner in the lawn. It would be easier to potty train an older dog, if you are consistent about where you want it to poop. Going to the same place, over and over again, would help the dog learn the right place faster. It also helps if you do not clean the spot much until your dog learns to go there when it needs to go potty.

3. Use the same words in referring to potty. An older dog might get confused if you use different phrases to mean the same thing. When you want it to go potty, use the exact same phrase so that it would somehow become like a command to do the behavior you want it to do.

4. Remove every trace of potty accident inside the house. Dogs' sense of smell are very keen and the smell of urine or excrement in your house might make it think that it is the place to go potty. Use a deodorizing cleaning solution to eliminate odors that might stick to your floors and carpets.

5. Keep your dog's sleeping area as tight as comfortably possible. Dogs do not want potty in their sleeping quarters and by keeping the area just enough for it to sleep and, maybe, turn around, there would be no space for it to go potty. Ever morning, when the dog wakes up, take it to its regular potty place so that it would do its business there.

6. Lessen your dog's food and water intake before it sleeps. This prevents accidents from happening because when your dog is full of water or food while sleeping, it might not have the capacity to control the call of nature.

7. Make it easy for your dog to go outside through a doggie door or leaving the back door open. If this is impractical in your area, leave a bell for your dog to reach. Take the dog out each time it rings the bell so that it would know that ringing is a signal for going out.
Whoever says you cannot teach your older dog new tricks might just be too lazy. Potty training an older dog is indeed possible if you know these tips and if you just have the right amount of patience.

For step-by-step training instructions you can learn immediately, please visit http://www.dog-training-techniques.info/

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tim_Lee

3 Dog Training Tips That Work - See a Difference Today

Do you think your dog needs obedience or some help calming down? Well I am going to help you solve these problems with a few Dog Training Obedience Tips.

Whether you have a puppy or an adult I can help. For example, if you have a puppy and you are trying to house train him you never want to rub his nose in his urine if he pees on the floor. This is a big DON'T! If you do this the dog doesn't learn anything. It will actually frustrate and confuse the dog more and this then leads to a stunt in the dogs learning. If this happens you are only making the training process harder for yourself.
All dogs want to learn, but the trick is teaching your dog the correct habits to learn.

Without the guidance of their leader (you), dogs learn bad habits because they have never been told different. That is where you come in at. You need to be the aplha male for your dog to follow.
You can help your dog learn good habits from my Dog Obedience Tips.

Always be firm when you are training your dog. Be specific and make sure your dog knows what he/she is supposed to be doing and also make sure that the correct way to be doing whatever you want them to do is obvious.

The last thing you want to do is confuse your dog. Dogs know only "dog language" and when training them you have to be patient because we have to convert them to our language. The most important thing that you need to remember when training your dog is to stay calm and don't get frustrated. Even if you don't know what you are doing put on a front for your dog and act confident because they will notice that.
If you act like your lost your dog won't trust you or rely on you for help.

Also if you are going to get on to your dog make sure you get on to him whenever he is doing something wrong. Don't punish him twenty minitues after he has made a mistake. That is like putting your kid in time out when you don't even know what he or she has done. So remember these tips when trying to train your dog because Rome was not built in a day and neither was training your dog. Trust me, it's easier than you think!

I wish you the best of luck with the new tips and techniques I have given you. If you give up you will never get anywhere and your dog will never learn anything. If you think you need more information on dog training I have a helpful website that gives great information on dog training that you can vist by clicking on this link. http://squidoo.com/dog-training-techniques-101

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Traditional Dog Training Versus Positive Reinforcement Dog Training - A Comparison

Every dog owner wants a dog who obeys. But these days, it's hard to own a dog or a puppy without getting overwhelmed by all the different training methods available. Traditional dog training methods (which usually use a choke chain, prong or electronic shock collar) have been used for generations, and the "tried and true" can be a very attractive notion to a new dog owner. Positive reinforcement methods (which usually use praise, treats, and sometimes clickers, head halter collars, or no leash at all) can be daunting and even scary for a new dog owner who is afraid his dog will never obey without a cookie.

How do you decide which method is best for you and your dog? Read on. You may have to un-learn some ideas that are based in traditional dog training, things you've heard from your family, friends or neighbors, or from traditional dog training or breed books.

Traditional dog training is probably what you (or your parents) used with your last dog. It generally involves the use of a leash "jerk" on the collar to correct a dog's non-desired behavior (such as pulling on the leash on a walk). The "jerk" can be substituted with a "choke if using a prong collar or a shock if using an electronic collar, both of which will greatly intensify the effect of this method. This type of training can be highly effective when both of the following are true:

• the "jerk", choke or shock is administered at the instant of the infraction/undesired behavior, and
• the "jerk", choke or shock is strong enough to act as an effective deterrent.

The main problem here is that we humans are rarely perfect - so we can rarely deliver the aversive consequence (the "jerk") with adequately precise timing. Further, humans differ dramatically in physical strength. So while a healthy 200 lb. man can often administer a jerk with adequate strength to be effective, a healthy petite woman may not be able to do so.

If your timing is not absolutely perfect, or your strength is not sufficient to administer a strong enough deterrent, the dog could be feeling the punishment of the jerk too late or not strongly enough. Rather than a learning experience, this simply becomes a painful and confusing experience. Over time, continued "jerk" or "choke" training teaches your dog that walking on a leash hurts, and that his owner is untrustworthy and unpredictable.

Another problem is that even people with great timing and strength may be asking too much of a younger dog. Let's say you're taking your 6 month old Lab out for his first "heel" session, and he's never really been out of your fenced yard other than for veterinarian visits. It's likely that he will be pulling madly in all directions and possibly even tangling you up in his leash. Alternately he could be so scared of the "outdoors" that he moves too slowly or not at all when you try to get him to walk nicely by your side. What do you do?
If you're expecting this Lab to exhibit a perfect heel, you may end up administering your perfectly timed and effective "jerk" almost continually, because he is almost continually NOT heeling. So the poor dog goes out for his walk and quickly learns nothing more than this: Walking on a leash with you is painful. Most new dog owners do not know how to distinguish between what's a "jerkable" offense and what's not, because it really depends on what that particular dog is truly capable of at that particular time, that particular day, that particular level of distraction, etc.

Lastly, a choke or prong collar can seriously injure the neck of a puppy under six months of age. This is why traditional training normally can't be started until the dog is 6 months of age or older; his neck must be strong enough to withstand the jerks. And as any dog owner knows, a 6 month old untrained dog has learned a multitude of bad habits already - pulling on leash, jumping on people, barking for attention, ignoring "sit" and "stay" commands, chewing on you or your furniture, and much, much more. As a matter of fact, waiting until a dog is 6 months old dramatically increases the likelihood that you'll need painful aversive consequences to extinguish the bad habits he's already developed.

Positive reinforcement training teaches that certain behaviors result in a pleasant consequence and all the other behaviors result in no consequence at all. (Notice that I didn't use the word "dog" in that sentence; positive reinforcement training can be used on any animal or human... Heck, plants grow as a result of positive reinforcement from the sun!) This method often starts out with pretty heavy usage of food as the pleasant consequence, whether you're using a clicker, halter, or just a happy "Good girl" as your good behavior marker. Over time and depending on the practice frequency, dog's accomplishment level and owner's satisfaction with the dog's behavior, the food consequence is phased out while praise and verbal commands and/or hand signals remain.

What are the advantages of positive reinforcement dog training? First, positive reinforcement training can (and should) be started the day you bring your puppy home. Any pup can handle eating and getting praised. There are so many things a very young pup does right as he rambles through his day, and the informed and aware dog owner can both identify those behaviors, name them, and then quickly reward him for them.
There is no need to wait until his neck is strong enough to endure traditional jerk-and-pull training. Now how does that compare to letting a pup run haywire with bad habits for months and then punish him for them when his neck gets strong enough? How great is it when a 6 month old dog is completely trained - and even better, the dog loves training and completely trusts his owner? (For more information, go to http://www.dogdaysUSA.com.)

However, if you are suddenly the owner of a completely untrained adult dog - let's say 4 years old - positive reinforcement dog training still is your best bet to get this nutcase under control. So yes, it is much easier when you start very early, but all is not lost if you start positive reinforcement training later in life.
Next, your timing need not be perfect when you're just delivering food. As a matter of fact, what positive reinforcement dog trainers call a "variable schedule of reinforcement" is actually more effective than predictable reward delivery. So your imperfect timing is actually an advantage!

Another great advantage to positive reinforcement dog training is that it makes it so easy for a pup of any age (6 months or not) to pay attention in an otherwise distracting environment. Which dog do you think will "obey" better: The one on a busy sidewalk getting his choke chain pulled up repeatedly, or the one on a busy sidewalk with a liver snap in front of his nose who keeps hearing his owner say "good sit!"

Further, because positive reinforcement training requires only trust and fun, it greatly enhances the dog-owner relationship for a lifetime. A solid trust between you and your dog means you almost never have to worry about him turning on you when you encounter a difficult or unusual situation. It also means he's much more likely to trust humans in general (unless someone in particular is abusive). You don't have to worry about punishing your dog, and your dog never has to develop fears and fight-or-flight defense tactics to deal with his owner's bizarrely random administration of painful consequences.

Finally, anyone can train a puppy using positive reinforcement - you, your toddler, the frail and elderly and handicapped can all be good trainers from Day One. No strength required.

So how did your parents and all those other people do so well using traditional training on their dogs? I strongly believe that the few who use traditional methods with true success also dole out plenty of praise and treats when the dog does right. But most dogs trained with traditional methods ended up (and still do) being euthanized for biting humans - a predictable behavior by a dog who receives pain from his owner one too many times.

Remember too, that many dogs were more "outside" dogs years ago and didn't have to learn all the indoor etiquette dogs now need to know. We expect more of our dogs today than ever before: To be sociable with every human, young or old, tall or short, nice or mean. (Years ago, a dog was expected to be vicious to outsiders). To be sociable with every dog they meet. (Years ago, most dogs didn't meet other dogs in social situations like dog parks or daycare.) To be good in the house and outside the house. To bark when they need to go out. Not to bark when they want to come in. To live walk nicely on a leash when 99% of their life is in a fenced yard. To share their food and toys with the boisterous toddlers from next door. (Years ago, it was considered absolutely normal for a dog to guard his possessions to the point of attack if approached too closely.) The list goes on and on.

The point is this: Think about what you're doing, how it's going to affect your long-term relationship with your dog, and what your dog is really learning. Then make your decision... and get some good treats!

For more information, go to http://www.dogdaysUSA.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Suzanne_Harris

Training Your Dog to Good Feeding Habits

It is highly important that dogs be fed regularly, on a schedule, rather than have the food available for them on a self feeding basis. There are many good reasons for this. For one thing, this is the best thing for their digestion and can help you to be aware of the health of your pet. Dogs who go off their feed are recognized more quickly when the feeding is done on a regular schedule and not "on demand".

Also, feeding dogs on demand does not allow for a period of rest for their digestive systems. The digestive juices within a dogs stomach are stimulated by the sense of smell, thus if a dog is constantly exposed to the smell of his food, even though he may not be eating it and it is just there for him 24/7, his stomach does not have a chance to rest.

Training a non-aggressive approach when around food is also important and this can not be done successfully unless you are the one to offer the food to the dog and thus can control his eating. When a dog is eating, you will be present and can train him to allow people to approach his food bowl. It is a good idea to pick his food bowl up while he is eating, stir your hand around in it, then set it back down. Occasionally you can also add a small tidbit of something special. this will teach your dog not to bite the hand that feeds him (or anyone else's hand).

Dogs need to be able to eat in different places. Feeding them on a regular basis but moving their food bowl to different areas of the living quarters, outside, inside, in the garage, etc., will be helpful should you ever take your dog with you on a camping trip or trips of an overnight nature.

Training the dog to sit or stand or wait or even do tricks is much easier when you are the one to set his food in front of him. If you are working on a particular skill with your dog, you can ask him to perform it and then set his food down. Teaching the "down" and the "sit" become much easier when you use the feeding time as an incentive for practice. A dominant dog learns that he is still subordinate to you, his human leader, when you are the one offering the food and providing it only after he has worked to get it.

Lastly but still important, there should be times during the feeding of your dog on a daily basis that you do have other people feed your dog. What if you should become ill or not able to be present? One of the important benefits of your dog being fed on a regularly scheduled basis is that he will be used to eating at a particular time and is much more likely to eat when a stranger might have to feed him.

Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to Dog Training

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Russell

Dog Training - Top 10 Dog Games That Will Wear Him Out

I can just see you sitting there scratching your head and wondering why I refer to dog training when writing about dog games. Well, this is because I am a dog. I know from personal experience that all dog games are really training and all dog training is really games. Allow me to introduce myself. I am Valentino Spock Bone. You can call me Valentino for short. My human has quite a sense of humor. But that is another story. Oh, by the way, the title about games that will wear HIM out is a pun intended because dog games will wear out a dog or a human! I guess it depends on who is reading this article!

Playing dog games is one of the most effective and fun ways to give your dog the physical and mental exercise he needs. It also provides a personal way to get to know your best friend in a casual environment. Unlike standard training routines that I will discuss in future articles, this article is just for fun, but in a healthy training-type way.

The thing is that I get bored with just plain old "fetch" or "Valentino come", even if it is for a treat. I'm very intelligent and so is your canine pal. He wants variety and lots of excitement. Even experts agree that in order to keep your pooch happy, you need to provide exercise and a challenge along with positive reinforcement...my favorite is those little treats that are soft and look like a tiny t-bone and they just tingle in my mouth and make me want to do cartwheels and run around the block...Sorry, I sometimes get carried away by the thought of another treat.

So here goes:

1) Fetch: Try to think out of the kennel and get creative with a ball or favorite toy instead of a stick. My human does not let me chew on sticks but she does let me chew my toys, so I get to use safe items to play fetch. I know this sounds funny, but not all dogs are created equal. Some dogs just don't like to play fetch! If not, keep reading because there are plenty of other dog games to play. Oh, I am sure that your dog already knows how to bring it back to you and to "drop it" before you start playing fetch.

2) Backyard Bobbing: We do this in the summertime using a small inexpensive wading pool that fits me to a T! All you have to do is fill it with a few inches of water and place a rubber toy in the middle and watch your dog have lots of fun getting into and out of the pool! If your dog gets too excited doing this be sure to let him calm down by getting his attention on something else or by emptying the pool and putting it out of his reach.

3) Mystery Tour:You can create a maze of boxes and other simple shapes in the back yard and use those treats to get your dog to run through the maze with you at his side, or not. He may want to go by himself while you watch. This is really great for helping your dog learn to move with fluid motion and it helps him to be OK with new and different shapes and situations, giving him confidence and mental balance. You can also purchase equipment for this, but simple is usually best unless you are training for obstacle course trials. Sometimes I just get all goofy and just jump ON the boxes in the maze...it drives my human crazy!

4) Hide and Seek: I love using my awesome natural ability to follow scents and with just the right amount of encouragement your dog will be an expert at finding you or whatever toys you hide in this game. If you and your dog are new at this, give him the stay command then hide yourself or a toy where your dog can see you, then give a come and get it or find me command. When he finds whatever you hid give him a nice treat and praise him like silly. After you get used to this, your pup will be able to find you or the hidden object by scent alone, even if he cannot see you. Start simple then get more complicated by adding more distance. Did you know that tracking dogs will sometimes track a scent by walking several feet away from where the trail is?
The nose knows.

This is a great way to spend time indoors on those cold winter days or just rainy days when inclement weather prevents you from taking your best friend outside. Please be sure to keep those treats close by. And, be sure to give the "stay" command before you hide, otherwise, he'll be right behind you!

5) Swimming: I know this may be hard to believe, but some dogs do not like water! If your dog thinks that water is evil, do not force him. But if he does love water, please take him now! Swimming is great exercise and you can have lots of fun watching him do the dog paddle! Remember to take lots of towels and dry him off afterwards to keep him from catching a chill.

6) Frisbee: Ah, catch. Catching a flying object is almost too exciting for me to talk about. I'm young, though and this is easy for me. If your dog is older this may not be so good for him as it is very physical and requires lots of movement and jumping and sliding all over the place. You will want to throw the Frisbee a short distance to start and then you can throw it farther and farther when fido gets the hang of it. This reinforces the "fetch" instructions of going after something, bringing it back and then "dropping" it so you can repeat the process for him. Did you know that there are actually Frisbee competitions? It just doesn't get better than this.

7) What's That?: I just can not get enough of this one. My human sits in her easy chair and out of nowhere, she takes a rapid breath IN and says in her most inquisitive voice, "What's That"? My ears perk up and I'm off and running in the direction of wherever she points her finger! OK. I know there's nothing there but she gets me every time. This is good for getting my attention and it helps me focus on whatever my human wants me to focus on. Then when the game is finished, she uses other commands to end the game; come, sit and stay. Oh, and sometimes, she stands up or moves around when she does this. So many ways, so little time.

8) Saddle Bag: This one is really cool. This is when I get to carry water and snacks for my human. If you don't already have a saddle bag you can make one with a nice piece of fabric that fits around your dog's belly and chest...and it has to have a pocket on each side to carry the water and snacks...my human uses it to carry my treats, too. This is so cool because I just look cute and gets lots of praise and treats for just walking! And, of course, it's good for me to walk quietly by her side for exercise. If your dog has been used to wearing doggie sweaters and coats, he will ease right into this. If not, just give him time to adjust to the feel of doggie clothes before you expect him to be comfortable with it. My human started by dressing me in sweaters because I was such a wiggle worm. After I calmed down and didn't mind the clothes, she gave me a saddlebag to wear. She started by putting small items in the pockets and then she added her water bottles after I was OK with the extra weight.

9) Horse and Buggy: No, I don't mind being thought of as a horse pulling a buggy. People also call this carting or pulling in some circles. This requires practice to get the hang of it, but once you do it can be a lot of fun, great exercise and it helps build stamina. My human uses a little red wagon. She removed the handle and added a fabric hitch that fits over my back and attaches to two round dowel rods that she got at a craft store. You could also use a sled or cart. I have to walk steadily and pull the wagon that usually contains a child or just stuff like groceries or debris in the yard that she wants to get rid of. It makes me feel like I'm part of whatever my human is doing at the time.

10) Leave It: I really love this because I don't have to do anything and I always get a treat! At first you just hold a favorite treat in your hand and say "leave it" and let your dog sniff at it but don't give it to him...the minute he stops trying to get it, you give it to him and praise the heck out of him. I'm guessing that your dog will get it by day two. After he really gets it, you can use it for almost anything such as leave the cat alone, leave the rug alone and leave anything alone that has his undivided attention.

11)Grand Ole Opry: I have one more, well, actually two but since I can't really count. My human gets up and 1)starts twirling around and 2)starts singing at the top of her lungs! All I want to do is be part of this madness so I stand up on my two hind legs and I howl! It is truly a sight to behold and afterwards I feel exhausted! So this is probably good for those days when your dog hasn't had as much exercise as he should have. A little goes a long way with this one. If you are not able to twirl, then just sway a little side-to-side is sufficient. And, if you can not sing, all the better 'cause it will drive your puppy into howling heaven.

Dog games are so good for your dog and with a little time will have both of you in sync with what makes your best friend happy and healthy.

You've tried everything and nothing seems to work. My human was the same way at first, but now she listens to me and she has helped me put everything I know in writing so you can understand what your pooch is trying to tell you! For more details about dog training... RUN, don't walk on a leash to the Dog Training Academy! [http://www.k9dogtrainingacademy.org/]

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Leona_Berrian

Dog Training - 10 Secrets to Create a Positive Bond

It is essential that you develop a close, positive bond with your dog, and to do that you must know how a dog thinks. Your dog will view you and your own family as his new family. It's important to make sure your new dog or puppy feels like he is part of it.

If you do a good job bonding with your dog, you'll be well on your way to having a well-adjusted, well-behaved pet. Good bonding means that your pet understands that he is part of your family and will want to please you. Here are seven secrets trainers use to create a positive bond with dogs:

1. Spend time with your dog. When the dog comes into your home, someone ideally should be within his hearing distance 24/7 for at least a week. If you can, take a vacation from work when you get your new dog. Spending a lot of time with him initially will get you both off on the right foot.
2. Use baby gates rather than closed doors. If you don't want your puppy in a room with you, at least let him be able to see and hear you through a baby gate.
3. Use a crate. You'll be using a crate to housebreak your puppy, but even older dogs find the security of their own "den" comforting. You can also move a crate from room to room so the dog can be around the family.
4. Let the dog sleep next to your bed. Your dog or puppy will smell you even while you are both sleeping, which helps with the bonding process.
5. Tether your dog to you while you're doing chores around the house. Simply hook a leash to your belt loop and go about your business. Try to do this for at least an hour every day. Not only will your puppy bond with you, you'll be able to keep a close eye on him to make sure he doesn't chew your favorite shoes! This works well with an older dog coming into your home, too. The dog gets to know your routine without being the center of attention.
6. Brush your dog daily. Most dogs love to be brushed, and it's a good time to pet and talk to your dog.
7. Limit speaking to your dog. One expert suggests not speaking to your dog for a week once you get him home so he'll listen to you when you begin training. Silence works as a signal that things are changing with an older dog that need obedience training whether he's been in your home six years or six hours, and it's a great way to start. Most dog owners find it impossible to do, though!
8. Take your new dog with you anywhere you can. If the weather is cool enough to leave him in a car, take him with you on errands. Take him on walks, visits and to work if you can. Expose him to new situations and people occasionally.
9. Play with your dog for at least 15 minutes every day. Your dog relies on you for his social stimulation, especially if he's an "only dog." Social stimulation is as important as food and water!
10. Give your dog down time. As important as bonding is, you need to remember that your dog is looking to you to find out where he fits in your family. Making him the constant center of attention leads him to believe he is the leader in your household. Put your dog in his crate while you are eating meals or after your children go to sleep.

Preventing bad habits is better than having to eliminate them, so bond with your new dog so that you can begin his training immediately. Don't allow your puppy or new dog to practice any behavior that you don't want to break later.

Marilyn Burnham
Author: 'Dog Owners Boot Camp'
The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don't Want You To Know!
For More Information On Dog Training.

Marilyn Burnham was the owner operator of 4 successful dog grooming stores in British Columbia, Canada for more than a decade. To spend more time with her children Marilyn made the desicion to sell her business in the mid 90's. Get a copy of her book: ‘Dog Owners Boot Camp’ The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don’t Want You To Know!

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